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The last farmer of Horta

The year is 2008 AD. Barcelona has swallowed up the surrounding villages and filled them with ugly housing and carparks. Well, not entirely: one small farm of indomitable pensioners still holds out against the invaders.

Originally a rather damp feudal landholding with church, the village where we start became the place where Barcelona’s clothes were washed in the 19th century, and, when the tram arrived in 1901, a garden suburb for the middle classes. Our excursion starts in pretty village centre, with a fine selection of picturesque and modern bars, old water towers and fountains.

We then head out past the remains of farmhouses and over rough land to an area that combines a great warren of old shantytown development (three most interesting bars, horticulturalists squatters of various ages) with some marvellous 19th century farmhouses and gardens. We’ll also meet some barnyard animals and The Last Farmer of Horta–if he’s not down the pub.

We continue uphill past a magnificent large fortified farmhouse and finish the walk at the Labryinth Park, with 18th century gardens used to film bits of Perfume, a neo-Moorish royal palace and a peaceful little bar.