Village bars and churches in wine country

C10th Christian castle, demolished twice by a Moorish father-son combination. Views of the Ordal and Garraf mountains, Montserrat. Walks along olive tree-lined tracks through vineyards and past farms (1, 2 (Montserrat in distance), 3, 4).

Tiny village which obviously inspired Manhattan, birthplace of right-wing nationalist bishop. Cool C12th church (1, 2, blog) with very strange Gothic murals (tell me if you want to see these–I have to juggle keys with people, and the timings change). 1913 mustard castle. Nice bar or strange bar. Stone quarry. Optional visit (all or none) to typewriter museum mentioned in Guinness book of records (office hours only). Demolished rectory of murdered (anno 1936) priest. Church with C17th doorstone. Hilltop shrine.

Municipal theatre converted into meat market. Impressive provincial architecture in centre of wine industry (Denominació d’Origen Penedès), of which mid-C20th cynic Josep Maria de Sagarra wrote: "When one pronounces the word Vilafranca onethinks fatally of a strip of greasy, compacted earth, all blossoming rancid stone with bishops’ mitres and wineskins."

Foodie special - please ask in advance, specifying the kind of things you’re interested in: stop at the half-way point and have lunch with the region’s best tortilla cook, excellent local food and wine.