/ kalebeul / 2003 / 07 / 31 / twilight of the pigs /
Binéfar is a town of roughly 8,000 in La Litera, an agricultural region on the Aragonese northern fringe of the Ebro Basin. La Litera is less well-irrigated than lower-lying areas, but has always been capable of producing significant quantities of useful flora and fauna. However, economic mismanagement, token land reform, and a boycott of the last Fascist state in western Europe meant that the 40s and 50s were a time of miserable poverty for people in the rural areas. Although there was no great enthusiasm for the Stalinist alternative, the numerous wayside crosses left behind during the post-war re-evangelization campaigns are a testament to the difficulties the theocracy had in convincing the rural population to abandon radical non-Christian millenarianism.
Nation-wide change began in 1957, with the appointment of an Opus Dei-dominated administration. From 1959, this group of technocrats paired Franco’s grim and bloody neoconservative agenda with an early strain of neoliberalism. They aimed to reform what Robert Graham called “paleocapitalism - primitive market skills operating in a jungle of bureaucratic regulations, protectionism, and peddled influence” (Spain: A Nation Comes of Age (London: St. Martin’s Press, 1984)); their principal economic targets were inflation and state control.
It worked:
Local highlights of the period include:
The exchange is on Binéfar’s Avenida del Pilar and its spiritual home is the front room of the neighbouring Bar Fronton. Prices on the website haven’t been updated since 2002, and the site’s administrator wants to see your money before s/he will let you see last week’s numbers, but can also find them for free, chalked on boards on the bar’s back wall. If you ask the woman behind the bar (who makes excellent bocatas) if you can photograph them, she’ll say no, the boss has to approve, no pictures. (Michael Douglas secretly running a pub in an agro-industrial cluster in rural Spain? Don’t bet against it.) And don’t imagine for a moment that it’ll make a difference if you offer to move the elderly gentleman who for the past 20 minutes has been reading the same paragraph of the local paper with his eyes closed.
(The picture here is from the local Baptist church. Even people who breathe fire don’t scare me as much as those who spend their lives planning and commissioning the slaughter of large mammals.)
The future is less promising. People in this region basically just aren’t interested in non-family businesses, which means that many of the companies dating from the 60s are now contemplating with trepidation the death or retirement of the founder. Many of those that survive will continue to face the curse of the small. The exchange is interesting because it is one of the few successful extra-familial institutions in Binéfar. However, although it has just celebrated its 25th anniversary, it’s difficult to see it making 50. It’s too small and information-poor. And, although although even the Chicago Board of Trade started small, there is absolutely no prospect of it increasing its product range to include futures or options. Meanwhile, the presence in town of quite substantial numbers of illegal Africans scraping a living in processing and construction shows that the locals haven’t learned the lesson of 40 years ago: that poorly-paid, poorly-educated labour is not the way forward.
Map: ViaMichelin.com. Most of the numbers are from 1upinfo.com or Stanley Payne’s history; please tell me if there’s a good agricultural history out there that I’ve missed. Photo of exchange in session: Lonja de Binéfar. Links of interest: Guia de Empresas de Binéfar, fine puppet group, los Titiriteros de Binéfar. Deutz tractor in el Serrat de l’Ocata, Catalunya, here.
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7 September 2007 at 1:14 PM
Fascinating bit, Trevor. You are a credit to your guild.