Bandit country, no humans, occasional wild boar, spectacular views

The mountainous terrain between Manresa and Terrassa through which we pass is now a deserted natural park; in the C16-17th it was bandit country–Quijote probably met his bandoleros somewhere along here–and things only really quietened down completely with the reassertion of Madrid’s political authority in 1714. The so-called royal highways were ostensibly constructed (often by chain gangs) for the benefit of merchants and the military and funded retroactively by local taxation. However, the venality of public administration ensured that most remained miserable paths, incapable of supporting the carts for which they were intended. The royal highway that we use for parts of this walk was nothing more than a slight and partial improvement of an ancient and appalling donkey track. It constituted, nevertheless, the only means of exchanging agricultural produce from central Catalunya with value-added & other goods from the coast until the completion of an alternative route from Manresa to the Barcelona-Madrid road in 1835 and the arrival of the train from Terrassa in Manresa in 1859.

Urbanisation with hordes of Central American servants. Walk up riverbed with occasional upward views of La Mola (1104m) and monastery Sant Llorenç del Munt. Large lodge-farmhouse (1330 or earlier). Bandoler terrain hereon. Royal highway with occasional sections with paving and/or primitive walls. Immediate detour to spring and C19th lime kiln (1/2/3) in wonderful mixed forest. Back to highway for climb to hilltop. Breathtaking long views at various points of Sant Llorenç (1/2), Llobregat valley, Montserrat (1/2), Bages, Pyrenees. Home of wild man exiled by Franco from his home town, Terrassa. Lunch by huge sandstone strawstack above cave of legendary bandoler Capablanca. Thief’s Spring hidden away near crime blackspot & gibbet. Small cave (other bigger ones off-track). Cavalier’s Rock, site of prodigious leap. Spectacular (ruined) fortified farms & lodges (1/2), one containing large snake (alleged). Stroll through valley, past church down to textile town with some nice quarries placed at (believe it or not) strategic rail/canal hub. Several interesting bars.